Thursday, August 26, 2010

Final excursion today: Erfurt

Yesterday was a busy day. First language classes in the morning, a quick lunch in the Mensa, followed by a walk to the train station and trip to Erfurt. Once in Erfurt, we had a 2 hour guided walking tour of the city, learning about its history. Erfurt lies on the most important east-west medieval trading path, the Via Regia, where it intersects with the north-south one. It was one of the wealthiest cities during the Middle Ages and Renaissance due to its production of the (only) blue dye for fabric, woad (Weid in German). The plant grew well in the area, was harvested, crushed, the formed into balls about the size of a fist. To extract the dye from the plant, ammonia was poured onto large tubs holding the balls, where it fermented for a couple weeks, then was dried and turned into powder. The clever part was how they got enough ammonia to do this: Free beer for urine. You might see the large round openings next to the door in the photo of such an establishment. When the owners were ready to begin fermentation, they would place wheat straw in the holes so that every one could see that there was free beer available. You might also notice the many small windows on top of the building. Those were to get the noxious gas out of the house. Erfurt is said to have been quite a smelly city.
Note: Woad precedes indigo as a source of blue dye, and its exportation from India and the Americas.

Erfurt also has the largest trade bridge north of Italy.  Craftsmen built shops with houses on top of the surface of the bridge (space was really at a premium).  Although the houses have been rebuilt to make them larger (2 to 1, decreasing the number of houses by 1/2), people still live above the shop. 

Be sure to check the students' comments on this city. 

Trust yourself

I saw this Goethe saying on a window in Weimar:
As soon as you trust yourself, you know how to live.

This saying was taken to heart by one of the course participants, Nick, who yesterday presented his mini-research project, in German, to a crowded lecture room. There must have been 40 people in the room, it was standing room only, and many people could not even find a seat. The requirements for the project were to ask a research question, do the research, write up the work in posters or Powerpoint, and present it to the audience. Nick did a great job! You can read his blog for details, but I'll pique your interest by telling you the title: Reise-Stunden (travel time).

The whole group is becoming more confident about speaking and understanding German, the major goal of the program.

Sunday, August 22, 2010

Time flies by...

It's hard to believe that we are 2/3 of the way through the program.  The students have adapted better than any group I have travelled with.  They are moving confidently forward as their ability to live in a different culture increases.  Most importantly, all have made progress in their ability in understanding and speaking in German. 
The group went on an excursion to Dresden yesterday, and discovered that Dresden was in the middle of a week-long festival.  There were hundreds of different booths selling everything from medieval foods (the city is 800+ years old) to hand made goods and souveniers along with five different stages with entertainment spread out across the older part of the city.  They were so far apart, you couldn't even hear one when at another. 

We had a bus tour when we arrived, seeing the Erich Kästner memorial, the Hygiene Museum (the "Ball Thrower" statue from the front),which was sponsored the the inventor of a German mouth wash.  We also saw  the transparent VW manufacturing plant immediately next to the downtown in the newer part
of the city, and some of the housing from the 1800s that survivied the Feb. 1945 fire bombing. Some students took the opportunity to walk to the top of the church to get a look at the whole city from above.

The tiles (one portion is on the right) that tell the history of the city's royal families are made of Meissen porcellan, and survivied the 1000 degree heat of the fire bombing. Since it was so hot, we took frequent breaks to stop for something to drink and sit in the shade. Even though Dresden is in a river valley (the Elbe), and that makes for more humid weather than we were used to in the mountains of Ilmenau, it was still much lower than Cincinnati, because as soon as we got in the shade, we felt ok.

We then had a guided walking tour through the old part of the city, seeing the Frauenkirche (Our Lady's Church), rebuilt between 1994-2005, and wonderfully restored to its Baroque style. The church was begun in the 12th century, with changes as the years passed.  It survived the fire bombing, then collapsed two days later.  With neither the money nor desire to rebuild it immediately after WWII, it lay as rubble as a warning in the 1980s.  After the wall fell in 1989, there was a world-wide appeal for money, then a search for master stone masons, who used what stones were left and built the rest from scratch according to the original plans.  The darker sections are not from the fire, although they are the original stones.  The darkness is the normal aging process of sandstone, the material of this building. 

Below is a photo of the "Lemon Press" building, the Kunstakademie (Art Academy).  There was a great controversy about the cuppola's style.
 

Tuesday, August 17, 2010

Fountains

Just about every town has a fountain or two. Here are ones we've seen.  Upper left is Weimar, upper right is Eisenach, and the lower middle is in Ilmenau.  Watch for additions from other excursions.

Sunday, August 15, 2010

Eisenach and the Wartburg

The day started out with drizzling rain, began to sprinkle on the ride from the Wartburg to the town of Eisenach (about 2 miles away), and positively poured for the city tour.  It gave new meaning to Bach's "water music."

A fountain in a side yard.
The first stop was the Wartburg, gained by devious means in the 11th century by Ludwig the Springer (Jumper--the names gives you an idea of his personality), housed St. Elisabeth as a child and young married woman in the 13th century, was the location of the famous "Singer-War," where medieval poets sang their songs to win honor, and was the hiding place for Martin Luther in the 16th century after he was excommunicated and lost his citizenship after refusing to recant (and starting the Reformation).  The low clouds and drizzle did totally remove the wonderful view, but was eerily pretty in a different way.
The study (prison cell) where Luther was hidden while an outlaw of the kingdom in addition to being excommunicated.


In the town of Eisenach, birthplace of Johann Sebastian Bach, we visited the museum first (hoping the rain would stop), where we could listen to many different pieces of Bach's music, see the Bach home's rooms, and see many of the musical artifacts.  Then we bravely went out in the rain to tour the home of Martin Luther when he was a school boy and see the church Bach was baptised in.  The church (Georgenkirche) door decoration has the initials of Johann Sebastian Bach (JSB), visible in the fancy script from both sides.

There was a new sign, commemorating President Bill Clinton's visit to the Opel (General Motors in Europe) factory and the city in 1998:
 "Do not underestimate what you as free people can achieve with your dreams."  If you click on the picture, you'll be able to see the text, and that he spoke to over 30,000 people that day.

Weimar

The outing to Weimar included information on the following:
1. the cultural heritage of Anna Amalie, Carl August, Johann Wolfgang von Goethe, Friedrich Schiller and Franz Liszt
Literature and music are hallmarks of the golden (and with Liszt, the silver) period in the history of the city.  These men were called/drawn to the city by the forward thinking patrons of the the king Carl August and his  mother Anna Amalie, who decided to create a cultural center in Weimar in the 18th century.  There is even a statue of Shakespeare in the park!

2. Bauhaus movement/university
In the 20th century, a group of artists and architects wanted to develop a new type of design that would incorporate all types of art and building.  People such as Vassily Kandinsky and Walter Gropius were key organizers, but the folks of Weimar found them to be too avant garde for the times.  The Bauhaus group soon moved to Dessau, then Berlin, before being driven out of Germany by the Nazi regime.  They ended up in Chicago (!) where they influenced, and were influenced by, skyscrapers and functional housing.

3. Weimar Republic
After World War II, the streets of Berlin were too dangerous to hold a congress to determine the future of the government, so the meeting was held in the quiet city of Weimar (in the National Theater, watched over by the Goethe and Schiller monument).  The result was the formation of the first democracy in Germany, which lasted only from 1919 to 1933, due in part ot hyperinflation and war reparations.

4. Buchenwald concentration campBuchenwald is about 3 miles from the city and sits on top of the Ettersberg mountain.  There are only a few buildings left standing (most were burned to the ground during the 1950s, but the memorial bears witness to the 56,000+ deaths of many different nationalities, political prisoners, POWs, as well as Jews, homosexuals, and Roma/Sinti.  The Americans liberated the camp April 11, 1945 at 3:15.  The Soviets later took over the administration of the camp (it was in the eastern zone), using it as a prison for German soldiers.




To the left is a photo of the camp from the a point near the entrance, looking at the roll-call field.  To the right is the Ettersberg mountain, taken from the highway outside of Weimar.  You can see the white tower in almost the middle.  Below and on the left is the tower at the top of the mountain, looking down toward Weimar.
This year there appears to be a city-wide joke with the street names (Schillerstraße, Frauentorstraße, Pushkinstraße), where letters are changed around.

Friday, August 13, 2010

Week 1

It's hard to believe that one week has passed.  We all know how to get to and from many different locations:  our hostel, the classrooms, the cafeteria, the grocery, and the downtown shops are all within walking distance.  We've found all the shortcuts between the different places, as well as how to navigate while on campus.  The students' ability to communicate in German is increasinging rapidly, and we're all getting to know the other course participants.

The group will have a very busy weekend. Saturday we will go to Weimar/Buchenwald for the day and on Sunday we'll go to Eisenach/Wartburg.  Look for postings about our activities in each place next week.

Monday, August 9, 2010

Getting Oriented


The group is slowly getting oriented in place and time.  Sunday was spent on walking about and getting familiar with how to get to the computer center, the Kursbüro (course office) and back to Kaufland.  On the way, we found a very unusual tree in a yard.  Going over to look at it, we noticed that the owners had erected a plaque explaining what is was and where it was from--they must have had a lot in inquiries.  Here is a photo the the three UC students in front of the tree, as well as a close up of the branches and the information plaque.

Monday brought the first official day with an opening ceremony.  A woman sang (beautifully and playfully), with guitar accompaniment, a medieval English ballad, a Baroque German song (about how to kiss correctly) and a modern Spanish song.  The duo was delightful. 

The president of the university welcomed everyone, as did the head of the international office.  Then it was down to serious business and the placement test.The test was computerized, and a series of 8 reading selections where students had to fill in the blanks with missing words, verb endings, vocabulary, etc. 

The results were available as soon as the exam finished (about 40 minutes), but we will have to wait until this evening to find out the actual class placement.  It's a little like elementary school, where you go to see which class you will be in, in that the lists will be posted this evening when the opening dinner and party begin.

Sunday, August 8, 2010

The Journey

Life is about the journey, and the journey here had several memorable moments.  The flight to JFK in New York was overbooked before we started, with calls for volunteers to fly later (not an option for us as we had a connecting flight).  Then, we were scheduled in a smaller (!) plan, necessitating an even more generous offer for folks to fly later.  Finally all of our carry on bags had to be gate checked (no fee), as the overhead bins were really designed for a jacket or purse, not a small suitcase.  Arriving at JFK, we actually went down the iconographic airplace (think 1960's old film deplaning) onto the tarmac and take a bus to the terminal.  Yes, the airport was actually that busy.  Luckily, our departing flight was in the same pod (the older section of JFK, where the gates are located around and outside of the shops and restaurants), so finding the gate was easy.  The terminal was filled with so many people, it was a bit difficult to walk around, but we all had a snack, realizing it was past lunch time, and might be several hours until dinner would be served on the plane.  We flew on a 767, which had plenty of overhead room for our suitcases, and a couple passengers were even able to take advantage of an empty row of three seats in the middle to stretch out and lie down to sleep.  About 7 hours later, we arrived to a busy Frankfurt airport, where we again had to exit to the tarmac and get a bus to the terminal.  Getting through customs was a breeze as we had only carry on luggage, so we were among the first to reach the controls.

Frankfurt airport is one of the world's largest, so it took quite a while to walk, escalate and tram to terminal one (we landed in terminal 2), where we again had to walk, escalate and zig-zag to the train station office to get out tickets to Ilmenau.  Then we descended to the trains, about five levels lower, where we found the track for our ICE (very fast) train.  Since we had about 1 1\2 hours, we got a sandwich and relaxed to wait for our train.  We watched a train come in and be cleaned for its return trip to Dresden (not ours since it had a different number).  We watched the people come, and eventually board.  We watched the carefully orchestrated final safety check and communication between the train officials on the train and those at the station.  We were a bit concerned that our train should be arriving shortly and this train had yet to depart.  We watched the train depart, that train with the incorrect number, and seeing the LAST wagon of the train, noticed that that wagon had the correct number.  We had missed our train.  Back to the train station office....  Here a picture of our luggage waiting for the next train.

We simply had to wait one hour for the next train (sigh..the wonders of an efficient public transportation system).  This ICE was running about 10 minutes late which is very unusual, so we missed our connecting train in Erfurt.  That was ok also, since there is an hourly train to Ilmenau.  We had the chance to look around the newly renovated Erfurt train station, complete with a vegetable and fruit stand, many different shops and even a McDonalds.

Of course, the train to Ilmenau was the once daily exception, in which you had to be careful which wagon you were in since half the cars split at the halfway point.  Luckily, I had heard of this before, and knew we had to find out exactly where to sit so that we wouldn't end up in the wrong town (we got here with no further adventures).  The counselors met everyone at the station and took us and luggage to the check in.  We are staying the Ilmenau's "Jugendherberge" (youth hostel), which includes a full breakfast, a first for the program.  Student dorms and visiting school children are full, necessitating.  It is about a 20 minute walk to campus (and the computer rooms), about 1/2 hour walk to the grocery, where we went as soon as we settled to get provisions for the weekend (nothing is open on Sunday).  After eating a light supper, we were all exhausted, and went to bed around 10 p.m., 4:00 on Saturday in the afternoon Cincinnati time.

On the right is a picture from the TV room of the Jugendherberge.  Today, Sunday, we're getting settled, finding and using the computer center, and taking a walk about the town.  Classes start Monday morning.

Saturday, June 19, 2010

Study Abroad in Ilmenau

This will be the home page for our study abroad program to Ilmenau, Germany.